Thursday, December 26, 2013

‘Tis the Season to Eat Leftovers.

I love the week between Christmas and New Year: the fun goes on, but the pressure is off – and there is a fridge full of leftovers so the grocery shopping and the “what shall we have to eat” problems are at least partially solved.

At Christmases Past on this blog we have had advice on how to use leftover plumpudding, and leftover turkey (here and here.)  If you have some other bird leftover - or none of the previous turkey recipes tempt you, – and especially if you have leftover vegetables too, the following recipe might help:

Cold Roast Fowls Fried, with warmed Vegetables.
Beat the yolks of two eggs, with butter, mace, nutmeg, &c. Cut the Fowls into joints, and dip them in this, and roll the egged pieces in crumbs and fried parsley. Fry the cut pieces nicely in butter, or clarified dripping, and pour over the dish any white or green vegetable, chopped, and made hot. Parmesan Cheese, grated, may be used to give a piquant flavour.
The family save-all, a system of secondary cookery, (1861) by Robert Kemp Philp

And here are a few more ideas for that cold roast fowl:

Capilotade Italian.
Cut up a cold roast fowl; then take a good slice of butter, and some shred mushrooms and potherbs; fry these till they are about to turn brown, with a tea-spoonful of flour: then add to them a large glass of white wine. Let the whole simmer together for a quarter of an hour; next put in the pieces of fowl, and heat them up for a few minutes. Garnish your dish with fried slices of bread; and just before you serve, pour into the saucepan two table-spoonfuls of oil, taking care that it does not boil, and stir it up well with the sauce.
The cook's own book: being a complete culinary encyclopedia... With numerous original receipts and a complete system of confectionery (1832) by N.K.M. Lee.

Poultry.—Mayonaise De Volaille—Second Receipt.
Take pieces of cold roast fowl. Arrange round them hard eggs cut in quarters, strips of anchovy, chopped capers, gherkins, and herbs. Put hearts of lettuces in the middle. These articles should be tastefully arranged.
Put the yolks of two eggs into an earthenware pan. with a little lemon juice, pepper, and salt. Mix well, and add, by a very little at a time, two spoonfuls of oil, stirring while doing so.  When the mixture is made, add a little lemon juice, and pour the sauce over the cold fowl.
This mayonaise may be made in the same manner with different sorts of fish, such as trout, carp, and turbot, or any fresh-water fish.
The sauce may be made with oil, salt, peppercorns, a little vinegar, and be heated over the fire without boiling.
The Treasury of French Cookery: A Collection of the Best French Recipes (1866)
by Harriett Toogood

Another Hen Pie.
Take the skin off a large cold roast fowl, and cut the breast, and all the nice pieces of it, into thin handsome slices. Break the bones, and put them on with the stuns, an onion, two eschalots, and the paring of a lemon, in about a chopin of water. Raise the walls of your pie, and make it in proportion to your fowl. Then fold a cloth, and put it neatly into the pie; put on your cover, ornament it handsomely, and glaze it over with a beat egg. When your crust is well fired, and of a fine light gold colour, cut the cover neatly round the inside edges of your pie, and take it off. Then take out the cloth, and when your stock is strong, and reduced to a mutchkin, strain and thicken, k with a very little butter and flour. Then put it on the fire, and stir it close till it comes a boil. Then take it off, scum it well, and season it with a little mace, white pepper and salt; cast the yolks of two eggs, and mix it with a little of your boiling sauce, and a gill of cream; return it back to the sauce-pan, and mix all together; put in your fowl, keep it shaking for some time over the fire, but do not let it boil, for fear of crudling [sic] the eggs. When the sauce is of the thickness of cream take it off, and put it into the crust, cover it up, and fend it hot to table. The crust may be made of puff'd paste, but if you do it so, put it into a pan with a loose bottom, so as to turn out.
The Practice of Cookery, Pastry, Pickling, Preserving, &c (1791)

by Mrs Frazer

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