It appears that the king also disliked a couple of popular dishes of the time as much as he disliked tobacco. He once said that should he invite the devil to dinner he should have these three dishes: 1.a pig; 2. a poll of ling and mustard; 3. A pipe of tobacco.
So, James did not like pork. That must have put a bit of a strain on the royal kitchens, pork being a very important flesh-meat of the time. I wonder if his dislike included bacon?
Ling is a type of cod, and also very common and popular at the time. A ‘poll’ (or ‘jowl’) was the head and shoulders of the fish – considered by many to be the best part. My second wonder of the day is – I wonder if it was the ‘poll’ he disliked, but would have been happy with a fillet, or was it the mustard sauce?
I am pretty sure we will never know the answers to those questions, but while we puzzle over them, here are some alternative ways of cooking ling (or cod, or even sturgeon) in case you have a mustard-sauce hater in your family.
As for Ling you may send it up dry, garnish with raw Parsly; another way is boil'd with Poached Eggs on it; another way is fry'd after it is boil'd, washing it over with the Yolk of an Egg, or with Eggs; or you may make a lng Pasty, putting Cream, Eggs, and melted Butter over it.
The Compleat City and Country Cook: Or, Accomplish'd House-wife, (1732) by Charles Carter.