One good
lead leads to another I often find, and my forays over the last couple of days
into The complete family-piece: and, country gentleman, and
farmer's best guide (published in London in 1737) turned out to prove the point yet
again. A recipe for a ‘Tea Caudle’ in this useful and practical manual jumped
out at me and begged to be befriended and posted (tea plus wine in the form of
custard – what’s not to like?) so here it is – with friends.
First, a reminder. A caudle is, according to the Oxford English Dictionary, ‘a warm drink consisting of thin gruel, mixed
with wine or ale, sweetened and spiced, given chiefly to sick people, esp.
women in childbed; also to their visitors,’ as well as a sort of sauce or gravy
to pour into a traditional raised pie. I have previously given a recipe for a
beer caudle, so to justify the title of this post, I give it again today:
Beer Caudle.
Warm a gallon of small beer, and put
into it three quarters of a pint of oatmeal, and a little allspice and ginger,
both pounded. Boil it half an hour and sweeten it to your taste.
The Times (London, 24 July 1795)
And here is the
tea caudle from my inspirational book of the week:-
To make a Tea Caudle.
Make a Quart of strong Green Tea, and
pour it out into a Skillet, and set it over the Fire; then beat the Yolks of
four Eggs, and mix with them a Pint of white Wine, a grated Nutmeg, Sugar to
your Taste, and put altogether, stir it over the Fire till ‘tis very hot, then
drink in China Dishes as a Caudle.
The complete family-piece:
and, country gentleman, and farmer's best guide (1737)
The caudle has a proud lineage. Here is a recipe from the
early fifteenth century:
Caudele.
Nym eyren [eggs], & sweng wel
to-gedere / chauf ale & do therto / lie it with amydon [wheat starch], do
therto a porcion of sugur, or a perty of hony, & a perti of safron; boille
hit, & ȝif [serve] hit forth.
Laud MS. 553 (c.1420)
And my
favourite, for you dyspeptic old men out there (you know who you are.)
To make a Caudle to comfort the stomacke,
good for an old man.
Take a pinte of good Muscadine, and as much of good stale ale, mingle
them to-gether, then take the yolkes of twelue or thirteene Egges newe laide,
beat well the Egges firste by themselves, with the wine and ale, and so boyle
it together, and put thereto a quarterne of Suger, and a fewe whole Mace, and
so stirre it well, til it seeth a good while, and when it is well sod, put
therin a few slices of bread if you will, and so let it soke a while, and it
will be right good and wholesome.
The
Good Huswifes Jewell (1596) by Thomas Dawson.
And now, by far the most intriguing version, from a book of medicines written
by the famous scientist Robert Boyle, who gave us Boyle’s Law, which explains
the relationship between pressure and volume of a gas. Boyle was not a
physician, but was somewhat hypochondriacal by some accounts, and therefore
interested in the art of home medicines:
For the Haemorrhoids, a very successful try’d
Medicine.
Take Maiden Leeks (as some call those
that grow without having been transplanted) and casting away the green part,
make of the bulbous part and sufficient quantity of whole Oatmeal a Caudle,
whereof let the Patient eat plentifully.
Medicinal experiments, or a collection of
choice and safe remedies for the most part simple and easily prepared (1696)
by Robert Boyle.
Finally, moving
away from specific medical indications, here is a rather delicious-sounding idea
which is really a variation on a theme of almond custard:
An Almond Caudle.
Blanch Jordan Almonds, beat them with a
little small Ale, and strayne them out with as much more Ale as you minde to
make your Caudle of, then boyle as you do an Egg Caudle, with a little Mace in
it, and when it is off the fire sweeten it with Sugar.
The Book of Fruits and Flowers (1653) by
Thomas Jenner.
Interesting! So Jordan almonds weren't always comfits -- almonds encased in a sugar shell? Or were they, and that's what they're referring to in the last recipe?
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