For the next few days, if all goes to plan, I will be
visiting Hampton Court Palace in London. Specifically, I am intending to pay
homage to the amazingly restored, fully operational Tudor kitchens. Naturally I
must give you a Tudor menu today – so here is the bill of fare for the nuptial
feast in 1486 of the first Tudor monarch, Henry VII, as it is given in Account of London by Thomas Pennant, published in 1790.
NUPTIAL
TABLE Henry VII
First Course.
A Warner
byfor the Course
Sheldes of Brawne in Armor
Frumetye wirh Venison
Bruet riche
Sheldes of Brawne in Armor
Frumetye wirh Venison
Bruet riche
Hart
powdered graunt Chars
Fesaunt intram
de Royall
Swan
with Chawdron
Capons
of high Goe
Lampervey
in Galantine
Crane
with Cretney
Pik
in Latymer Sawce
Heronusew
with his Sique
Carpe
in Foile
Kid
reversed
Perche
in Jeloye depte
Conys
of high Grece
Moten
Roiall richely garnysed
Valance
baked
Custarde
Royall
Tarte
Poleyn
Leyse
Damask
Frutt
Synoper
Frutt
Formage
A
Soteltie, with writing of Balads.
Second Course.
A Warner
byfor the Course
Joly Ypocras
Joly Ypocras
Mamane
with Lozengs of Golds
Pekok
in Hakell
Bittowre
Fesawnte
Browes
Egrets
in Beorwetye
Cokks
Patrieche
Sturgyn
freshe Fenell
Plovers
Plovers
Rabett
Sowker
Seyle
in Fenyn entirely served richely
Red
Shankks
Snytes
Quayles
Larkes
ingraylede
Creves
de Endence
Venesone
in Paste Royall
Quince
Baked
Marche
Payne Royall
A
colde bake Mete flourishede
Lethe
Ciprus
Lethe
Rube
Fruter
Augeo
Fruter
Mouniteyne
Castells
of Jely in Temple wise made
A
Soteltie.
For those of you who are not hard-core food historians, at
first glance (and maybe also at second and third glances) this bill of fare may
be more than a little mysterious. It would take a complete book to explain
every dish on this menu, but today I have only the time and space for one short
blog post (got to leave time to explore those massive palace kitchens!). I promise
however that from time to time over the
next few weeks, I will pick one or two items from the feast and explain them
briefly. If you have a particular request do please let me know.
Today’s
recipe is absolutely relevant to a royal household from the era. It is from a
book published in the year 1500 whose title page reads:
A
Noble Boke off Cookry
her begynnythe a noble boke off cookry
ffor a prynce houssolde or eny other estately houssolde.
Her begynnyth the making of all thes
kind as ye shall find here aftur in the bok more playnly the dighting of xiiij
and iij dysshes
And here it
is - an elegant savoury ‘jelly’:-
A gilly of fleshe.
To mak a gilly of fleshe take conys and
fley them and skald pegions chop them and fley of the skyne skald chekins and
chope kiddes and put all to gedur and boile it in red wyne then tak it upe and
lay it in a clene clothe dry the peces of the kid pigions and conys and couche
them in dishe and chope chekkins and put ther to then set the chekkins in a
cold place where it may stand stille then set the brothe to the fyere agayne and
luk it be well strened that no fat abid ther on then tak skalded caluys feet
and lay them in the same brothe till they be tender and luk the brothe be clene
scomed sessen it up with salt and serue it.
I want to know about all of it, of course -- even if it's only "Bruet riche = rich soup" (am I right about that?) and no other explanation. If that's not possible (and I admit it would be a lot of work, and if I were in England, I would certainly rather concentrate on its riches!), I would dearly love to know what the "Warner byfor the Course" is -- appetizers? amuse bouches? -- "Frutt Formage" (should that have been "fromage"? I hope so! Fruit cheese!), and "Seyle in Fenyn entirely served richely" (a whole seal? or something else? and what is fenyn?).
ReplyDeleteThanks so much for posting this! I learn so much from your blog!
What a delightful trip! The Hampton court kitchen people used to run a blog called "Cooking the Books" but I think it is defunct.
ReplyDeleteI'd be especially interested in the items on the menu that I can't understand at all, such as "frutt formage" (fruit cheese?)
Sorry to miss seeing you at Hampton Court. I was there at the cookery last month but will be in a sugar-work course in Cumbria this coming weekend. Be sure to visit the "Chocolate Kitchens" while you're there!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Elise, will do!
ReplyDelete"Castells of Jely in Temple wise made" -- each item totally remarkable in language and conjurings, in the absence of really knowing what anything is. Thanks for writing all this out, and posting.
ReplyDeleteThe TudorCook blog, "Cooking the Books", is no longer active but there is a replacement called "The Forum" which can be found at http://www.tudorcook.co.uk/ along with links to the earlier blogs. While it, too, has begun to have far less traffic, there still are past entries to explore and a good gallery of photos and short videos.
ReplyDeleteThanks, friends - and my apologies for the delay in replying - I am still catching up after my holiday.
ReplyDeletekitchencounterculture - thanks for enjoying the story. I love the language too.
Elise - many thanks once again for your comments and for the link. I did not know about the replacement site.